Hobbywing Skywalker esc

Hobbywing Skywalker esc

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Hey Guys,

These caught my attention price wise and amp wise. I want to replace my stock esc with a better one and the dimensions are perfect for my heli. I tought I would ask about these as a heli esc. I have ran hobbywing in my r/c cars before with good results and figured these can't be to bad.

My stock esc is a 8amp in my SR and wanted to replace it with a different one soon.

Here are the ones I was looking at

http://www.hobbyhot.com/SKYWALKER-20A-RC-Brushless-Speed-Controller-ESC.html

Thanks for any advice

SH Engine

SH Engine is a Golden Lion Enterprises Company was established in 1989. They continue to set the industry standard for manufacturing the best Nitro Engines on the market worldwide. SH Engines are known for there incredibly reliable, high horse power nitro engines. Using industry leading CNC techniques has allowed SH Engines to stay out in front of the competition. All SH Engines products are thoroughly tested by there engineers and Team Drivers to help introduce the best engines, replacement parts and hop-ups to the public!

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More Tamiya Product on HobbyHot.com
HOW TO BUILD A CIRCUIT 
Building a racing course, even a simple one, lets you enjoy it far better than running a car in a large open space freely. You can make one very easily, i.e., by drawing lines with chalk or using empty bottles for pylons (when using a space of someone’s possession, like a parking lot; of course, permission should be acquired beforehand). To make race more fun, some knowledge of courses are required.
1. A TRACK BEFITTING THE CARS
You cannot expect thrills and excitement when running cars on a track that is too wide. Conversely, a too narrow track means you cannot enjoy the fastest racing. Considering car size and performance, suggested track dimensions are shown on the following diagram.



COURSE LENGTH
With electric powered cars top speeds at around 40km/h, this equates to a little more than 11 meters per second. Taking into account deceleration at corners, a car will lap a 100m circuit in about 15 seconds or less. The top speed of glow engined R/C cars can exceed 60km/h. The faster a car‘s top speed, the longer and wider the racing circuit should be.

COURSE WIDTH
Course width should be determined by the models size and the number of cars that will be raced at the same time.



*Areas distant from drivers should be made broader.
The farther away from drivers, the narrower the course will look, because of parallax. This can cause problems for drivers. To compensate for this, track sections in these areas should be 1 to 2m wider than other areas.
*Wider sections can be used for the pit area.
Make a very wide section near the drivers control stand to be used as the pit area for endurance racing and other events.

*Vertexes of curves should be made wider.
Cars are apt to deviate from the course outward on high speed curves, and inwards on low speed curves. The width of corners should be increased accordingly.More Tamiya Product on HobbyHot.com 

STRAIGHTAWAYThere should be at least one straight stretch where cars can run at their maximum speed. If a car’s top speed is 40km/h, it will travel over 30 meters in less than 3 seconds. Drivers can relax and enjoy top speed driving on these straights. A longer straight may be desired depending upon the car’s speed potential. A straight of over 40m will allow drag racing, for cars designed with quick acceleration performance (a 400m full sized track is 40m in 1/10 scale).
2. TRACK CHARACTERISTICS ARE DETERMINED BY CURVES
Circuits are roughly classified in two groups; a high speed course where velocity is important, and a low speed course where control techniques are more important. The features of a track are formed with the number and characteristics of many curves. An ideal circuit conceivable is a mixture of high and low speed courses.

CURVES AND CORNERSCurves and corners can be divided into three groups in terms of their layout and a car’s possible passing speed. It is recommended to use at least one each of the high, medium and low speed curves, plus a complex one consisting of different radii, on the circuit.




More Tamiya Product on HobbyHot.com 

COMBINATION OF STRAIGHTS AND CURVES
A circuit’s characteristics can be changed by how the straights and curves are combined. A short straight between curves of different radii makes a kind of complex course. A high speed corner, following a long straightaway, emphasizes the thrill of high speed performance. A hairpin corner after a straight requires hard braking and careful steering control.

3. FROM THE DRlVER’S POINT OF VIEW
Apart from its size, the biggest difference between real cars and cars is the position of the driver. The following points should be fully considered.

SECTIONS FAR FROM DRIVERS SHOULD BE MADE SIMPLE
On a circuit, track sections distant from drivers look narrower. Therefore, these sections should be made simpler and wider. Put the demanding, complex corners and high speed curves as near as possible to the drivers’ control stand.

DO NOT OBSTRUCT THE DRlVER’S VIEW
Bridges and gates are often seen on real race tracks, and putting them on circuits creates a proper racing atmosphere; however, these decorations can often hinder the driver’s view. Avoid positioning them on or near corners, and always check their position by viewing from the control stand.

INCORPORATE A - STRAIGHTAWAY AFTER THE START
In competition, cars run in a tight group just after the start, and collisions are apt to occur. It is therefore desirable to have a straightaway long enough for the drivers to observe things from the start to the first corner.

4. TRACK SURFACE
For on-road circuits, it is not advisable to have bumps, recessed lines or bulges, as onroad cars have only minimal ground clearance. Some undulations and gentle slopes can be allowed, as long as they do not hinder a car’s running. Sand and dust on paved surfaces reduce traction excessively, and should be washed off with water or swept clean with a broom if possible. For off-road circuits, rough or uneven surfaces are no problem. On the contrary, slopes, jump areas, and banks add to the excitement of racing. Varying surface conditions require more advanced driving skills and proper car setting, thus providing a greater challenge and more total enjoyment. Pebbles should be picked up and tall grass should be removed from the course surface.

PLAN COURSE DRAINAGE CAREFULLY
Unless built indoors, drainage is very important for both on-road and off-road circuits. If possible, slightly raise either side or the center of the course, so that water does not remain on the running surface.

5. COURSE EDGESOn permanent circuits it is recommended to have shortly mowed lawn or artificial turf on the edges. The area between the course and its edges spaces should be level or have a gentle slope, with the outside being higher. This will reduce damage to cars if they leave the course and it ensures easy entry back onto the track. When the spacing between course lanes is very short, some fencing should be used to prevent cars from short cutting across the course.
If you build a temporary circuit using logs, boards etc., these should be 10 to 15cm in height so that the driver’s view is not obstructed. Painting these in light colors will help the drivers recognize the course, and it also enhances a racing atmosphere.

6. DRIVERS’ CONTROL STAND
ln order to provide the best view for drivers, a raised control stand is desirable. You can use large boxes, chairs, or a truck’s platform, but be careful of their sturdiness and stability. The larger a circuit becomes, the higher the control stand should be; however, too tall of a stand is inconvenient to get on and off, and ladders may be required. You should also consider hand rails for safety.

7. SPECTATOR SAFETY
cars travel at very high speeds and can cause serious accidents if they deviate from the course and collide with onlookers. To prevent this, fences of at least 50cm high should be used around the course. Glow engined cars emit noise during running and this can be annoying to others. When choosing a location to run these cars, be aware of the environment so that you do not disturb people around you.

More Tamiya Product on HobbyHot.com 

Copyright from TAMIYA RADIO CONTROL GUIDE BOOK 2005

Hobbywing XERun-120A ESC and Tacon 4300kv

I just installed this setup running 87/24 with a flysky 2.4 remote (dont worry motor temp isnt close to nuking) but my issue is with the setup itself..

Two things when I hit forward, I have to hit it twice for it to go, like forward and reverse are switched since u have to hit neutral first to engage reverse except its backwards. I hit the throttle twice to make it go.

The other issue is braking. when I hit brake it stops the truck, not like a drag brake, but power is killed and I cant get back on throttle until I hit it twice again which is annoying if ur trying to brake into a corner.

So far ive adjusted to it by practicing all day but I rather have the brake function.. My esc setup is set for forward/brake/reverse, no drag brake, no intial brake and reverse 100%. It seemed some feature on my remote is backward but if I switch it to REV mode it doesnt help, I lose reverse and the position of the throttle is switched. So then im thinking maybe switch the wires on the motor and it doesnt help. If I do that now left is right, right is left and i still have no reverse. I then switch the mode in the remote to REV and still no change... im stuck.

http://www.hobbyhot.com/HOBBYWING/

LEOPARD

LEOPARD Brushless Motor for Airplane
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LEOPARD  POWER  MODEL has 15 years experience in manufacturing with precision hardware. Recently LEOPARD POWER MODEL has been developing and producing OBM Brushless Motors and Brushless Governor ESCs.  

 

LEOPARD POWER MODEL keeps a pace with the latest technologies and strives to push the boundaries in developing new products.

 

I've been playing around with my new Leopard 60A 3300KV brushless system from HobbyHot.com for a couple days now. Looks like I was the early adopter on this one, so I figured I'd write a little review. 



Setup of this system is essentially plug-and-play; the ESC automatically sets up neutral and endpoint settings when you turn it on. Listen for a series of videogame beeps, then a pause, then a different set of beeps, and it's good to go. You do have to be a little creative in finding a spot for the ESC, because the wires for the motor and battery aren't very long. It's also a good idea to wrap electrical tape around the motor connectors after you plug them in, so they don't come unplugged while you're running. (This happened to me twice during my initial test run.)

This is my first brushless system, and I had no idea what to expect in terms of power. I'm quite pleased. It's about on a par with a hot modified brushed motor, but the power curve is different; it runs more like a nitro engine, actually. Instead of running out of steam at higher speeds like a brushed motor does, it keeps pulling strong until the RPMs top out. I did notice a little stutter at low speeds (what I assume is the phenomenon known as "cogging") but only for a second or two; once it got rolling, the throttle response was very smooth and responsive. Right now I have the startup power in the "standard" setting, which starts it out nice and easy and then ramps up after a second or so. This is good for saving gears, I suppose, but the lag is a little annoying. I think I'll try switching it to "high," just to see if it's more responsive. I also need to bump up the reverse power, because right now, it barely moves in reverse.

This ESC uses the "double-click" setup for reverse, like the Tamiya ESCs: First push backwards is all brake until you let off, and then the second push is reverse. I really like this setup better than a delay or a 50:50 setup. You can also turn reverse off. The brakes are weaker than I had hoped, but they do stop the car in a reasonable distance. There are settings for drag brake too, but I haven't played with them yet.

Programming is easy: plug the ESC into the card, turn it on, select the setings you want (via red LEDs), push "Enter," and it beeps. Turn it off, plug it back into the receiver, and you're all set. It includes voltage cutoff settings for NiCd, NiMH, and 2 and 3 cell LiPo and LiFe packs. I'm running it with a cheapo 1500 mAh NiCd pack becasue that's all I have right now, and still getting 10-12 minutes on a pack. You can tell right away when the voltage cutoff kicks in, because the ESC applies full brake. If the car screeches to a halt when you hit the throttle, your battery is done.

The cooling fan on the ESC is a little noisy, but it is effective. The ESC stayed nice and cool during back-to-back runs (25 minutes run time total), and the motor was just warm, but not hot. The batteries, however, were too hot to hold comfortably; you can get away with cheap NiCds, but it puts quite a strain on them. I need to get a better battery pack or two, at least 3000 mAh NiMH. Also, don't try to run with an adapter from the ESC's Deans-style plug to a Tamiya plug; the Tamiya plugs can't handle the juice and you'll trigger the voltage cutoff early. Use a pack with a Deans plug on it.

Right now, I have the system installed in my Lunchbox. I tried a Stadium Thunder, but the old worn-out diff gears weren't up to the task and the splines stripped out. It's overkill for the Lunchbox, but at least I know the gearbox can handle the power. When I have some more money, I want to find a used RC10 or something that can really handle high speeds and try it in that.Leopard Brushless Motor
http://www.hobbyhot.com/LEOPARD/

Fly Sky FS-TH9X 9 Channel Transmitter

The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is an excellent radio for the price. If you are on a limited budget and looking to upgrade to 2.4 GHz then I highly recommend you take a look at it. At under $100 for a complete combo it doesn't really matter if you knock or drop it.

• The FLYSKY 2.4 GHz price wars are really heating up at the moment now that many Chinese manufacturers have entered the market. For the past few years there have been various 2.4 GHz modules coming out of China, with some decent offering from Corona and Assan, now it seems like the Chinese want to make a name for themselves by offering full systems. The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is the first offering that I decided to check out.

• I am a diehard Futaba Fasst fan but I am tired of having to sell a kidney or take out a second mortgage every time I have to buy a new receiver for my fleet. The Fly Sky offerings drew my attention with their sub $20 receivers. The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is offered under various brand names but it is basically the same transmitter.

• The Fly Sky FS-TH9X is modular system, so specifications may vary depending on the module you select. The transmitter itself is loaded with features, some of which you will usually only find on some high end transmitters.

Specifications

• Number of Channels: 8ch PPM/9ch PCM
• Display: 128*64 LCD
• Support Type: Heli/Acro/Glid
• User Models: 8
• Stick Modes: 4
• Encoder Type: PPM/PCM
• Sub Trim: Yes
• Simulator Interface: Yes
• Buzzer: Yes
• Low Voltage Display: Yes

The menus are clearly and easy to navigate using the 128×64 pixel LCD display. The only issue I had was that the +/- buttons are back to front with the positive on the left.

Available at http://www.hobbyhot.com

source: http://helicopter.dozuki.com/c/Fly_Sky_FS-TH9X_9_Channel_Transmitter

Syma S107G 3Ch coaxial micro heli with gyro Review

Syma S107G 3Ch coaxial micro heli with gyro Review

I initially purchased one as a gift from hobbyhot. I test flew it and then wrapped it up as a gift. All went well. I wanted an additional tough 3Ch coaxial for my kids to fly so I purchased another Syma S107G from hobbyhot (inexpensive or free shipping). The helicopter is a little heavier than the Phoenix 6010 that I previously purchased but just as tough. In comparison, the Syma is heavier and a bit slower in forward flight. The Syma however handles the air from the airconditioner vent better. The Syma also has a more proportional tail control. So forward flying and turning is easer & more precise on the Syma. There is no shortage of places to get spare parts from and I had ordered a set of spare blades and rear prop from hobbyhot on a later spare parts order I made for my other helicopters. The S107G is a very popular 3Ch indoor heli currently and you will find no shortage of fans of this heli out there. Neither my kids nor I have yet to perminanty damage the helicopter (see TIPS below). But don't consider them indestructable. But for the price, they are a great addition to ANY experianced flyer to have to take a quick flight indoors, even in a small room. My S107G was a Revision 5 circuit board.

Here are som TIPS on the S107G

• Charge using the USB cable. Light will be ON when unplugged or fully charged. It may be dimmly lit when charging. Note that the USB plug you plug it into needs to supply sufficient power or it will not work. Some PC USB hubs are NOT powered and you may need to plug directly into PC. I do however you find a USB plug in power supply to charge this helicopter. Charging takes 20-30 minutes depending on discharge of LiPo.
• DO NOT keep flying once you loose the power to stay in a hover. You will wear down the LiPo faster this way. You may also elect to time your flight so you fly 30-60 seconds LESS than this point. That will prolong the LiPo life.
• To reduce damage, you MUST lower your throttle upon or just before IMPACT with an object. This will help save the blades and motor gears. The helicopter can take a fall from 6' onto carpet better than it can grind it's blades into a wall or bedpost.
• The closer you are to an object, the more that object pushes or pulls the helicopter because of the airflow across the blades. So landing on a 2 foot tall stack of books is harder than landing on a magazine on the floor.
• If you are not going to fly the helicopter (for say a week), fully charge the helicopter, then fly for 3 minutes and then store the helicopter (powered off of course).

Power Up sequence

1. Set Tx to channel A
2. Lower throttle. Turn on Tx
3. Turn on Helicopter and set down.
4. There is an LED that will stop flashing under the canopy on the back left of the circuit board when it's initialized. This takes 5-10 seconds.
5. Slowly raise throttle.