Remote Control Model Review Blog

We test and review most updated Remote Control Model , including Digital Servo, Brushless Motor, ESC, Lipolymer and so on.

Monday, April 16, 2012

Is 1/10 Hobbywing Xerun approved by ROAR


hi i want to use the 1/10 hobbywing xerun combo for onroad rc racing but is it approved by ifmar and/or roar? 

I want to get another motor for bashing, how many turn should i use if i want my car to go 50mph+ on 2s without overheating the esc and killing my lipos? thanks 
http://www.hobbyhot.com/HOBBYWING/

Tuesday, April 10, 2012

The Official Fly Sky FS-GT3B thread

It seems that there is a large number of FLYSKY gt3b threads spawning here and I thought it might be a good idea to focus that knowledge into one thread... Since i at the moment simply cannot be bothered to hotlink the lot of them into this opening post i am going to let that be up to someone else. 

Since i do have the gt3b thread on RCTech open in another tab at the moment i figured i would link that into this thread... 
http://www.rctech.net/forum/radio-el...ansmitter.html 

Well so to start it all off... Over on RCT we're experimenting with different modifications, all pretty well detailed in that thread, and i have just ordered myself the hardware required to start tinkering with the source code, now i could do a full write up "how to" style if there's a market for it... I'll need some time to figure all the stuff out though... 

Well lets see if this idea takes root, might be usefull to some people to have a more centralized thread. Reason i didnt turn it into a general flysky thread is that i see the gt2 as a different enough platform to merit it's own thread and it seems to that Jang's original thread is performing that role quite nicely... (also i just dont have one:P)

Where to buy GT3B
HobbyHot http://www.hobbyhot.com/Fly-Sky-FS-GT3B-3ch-2.4GHz-LCD-Transmitter-Receiver.html
fast ship and friendly service.

HobbyKing
no idea but quite a lot complaints from rcgroups

Links!

HOW TO: Reprogram the GT3B Radio

PSX Firmware Generator

Custom Firmware
Version 0.1.0

Version 0.2.0

New Firmware Help-
http://www.rctech.net/forum/9235682-post1692.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9236088-post1695.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9267271-post1774.html
Service Menu

Insight of the GT3B

Reptile's GT3B Bearing Mod

Useful links!

PSX
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8827368-post847.html
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8792929-post823.html

FireFrenzy's Tutorial on Reprogramming the GT3B
http://www.rctech.net/forum/8953371-post1029.html

STM8S Mod from 305

losikid67 Reprogramming Kit

losikid67 3pos Switch Adaptor

People Offering Reprogramming Services
Australia
NSW
QuangVuong - $5 per radio. An extra $5 for a bearing mod. Plus postage both ways.

America
Arkansas
Smoedog -$5 per radio + shipping

Jefferson City, Missouri
bugman72 - $10 + shipping for the reflashing service, $5 + shipping for the bearing mod

Chicago, Illinois
beemerfan - $10 + all shipping costs for reflashing
Indiana
Fixitrod - $10 plus postage both ways

Portland Oregon (Pacific Northwest)
Robs Pics - $10 plus return shipping

Where To Buy the STM8S?
element 14-$15.71

Digi-Key-$9.60

Mouser-$9.60

UK Farnell-7.23 Pounds

Micro 4 You Studio-$16

Future Electronics-$8.55

Please PM me if you know any stores, which sell the STM8S board. Please send me a link of the item.

Please PM me with your area and price you are offering to reprogram the GT3B. I will be adding to this list.

If Ive missed your tutorial, or something useful, please PM me and Ill add you here. Sorry if I did miss you.

Monday, April 9, 2012

PAINTING & DECORATION OF R/C CAR BODIES

PAINTING & DECORATION OF R/C CAR BODIES 
A large part of RC car enjoyment is in their construction and running; however, final finishing and decoration can also provide great pleasure. Decorating and finishing is not only self satisfying, but an essential part of the hobby. A beautifully finished car even seems to go faster, and if it has been modified or customized, it will stand apart from the others.
1. PAINTING BODIES
Painting the body shell is the most important single step in finishing the car model.
Two types of bodies are used on R/C vehicles. Injection molded styrene plastic resin or vacuum formed transparent polycarbonate (Lexan) body shells. The usable paints and working procedures are very different between these two types of bodies.
SOME PRACT|CAL ADVICE ON PAINTING
Plastic paints use organic solvents, and can be harmful if improperly handled. Observe and follow the manufacturers rules for safe use and a good finish on the model.
Ventilate while painting 
Allow adequate ventilation in the painting area while working.

Avoid open flames 
Some paints and thinners are inflammable. Never use them near open flame.

Paint on a clear day with low humidity
High humidity can cause a cloudy finish (blushing) on the painted surface. if possible, paint on a clear day to avoid this problem.

Spray paint outdoors in a windless area

A spray can delivers a fine mist of paint that coats wide areas evenly. Spray paint outdoors in a shady, windless area. Use a cardboard box, newspapers, etc. to keep paint off the surrounding areas.
PAINTS AND RELATED ITEMS REQUIRED
Paints for injection molded
 bodiesStandard plastic model paints, like enamels, acrylics, and lacquers, can be used in painting injection molded car bodies.

Paints for polycarbonate bodies
Specially formulated polycarbonate‘ paints are required for painting these transparent body shells. Conventional plastic paints easily peel or chip off, even with the slightest shock to the car body.
Some kits include separately molded plastic parts such as the driver’s helmet, spoiler, door mirrors, etc., which are added to the polycarbonate body. These plastic parts must be painted with regular plastic paints and not polycarbonate paint.
Brushes and other implements
Paint brushes come in several shapes and sizes, such as flat or pointed brushes. In addition, you will need the following when painting: Paint thinner compatible with your paint, empty paint jars or trays, masking tape, scissors, a modeling knife, clips or clothespins, rags and newspapers, etc.
PAINTING INJECTED MOLDED BODIES
The highly detailed and lifelike bodies are injection molded from styrene plastic resin. They are heavier and are more easily damaged in collisions at the track. Standard plastic paints are used in painting these bodies.



Preparation

1. A subassembly to be painted in one color should be assembled prior to painting. Remove excess cement, fill in and clean up joints and seam lines. Smooth the entire surface using a modeling knife and fine abrasive papers.
2. Remove all dust and oil from the parts. Wash them in a mild detergent, and rinse well, allowing to air dry. Objects to be painted should be secured to a base so that you have access to all areas to be painted. For example, make a loop of tape, with the adhesive on the outside, then secure the body to an empty box or can. Small parts should be painted while still on the plastic tree, or by holding with a clip.


Painting procedures
First paint the body overall. Add small details after the first coat has completely cured. Spray paint the large areas and brush paint the details.

Tips on spray painting

Shake the spray can well prior to Use. Test spray to see if it is properly mixed.
Spray in one direction only, from a distance about 30cm from the model.
Always use a light coat over the entire surface, and allow to dry. Repeat this procedure or three times for a perfect finish.
When the distance between the can and
 model is too close, or too thick of a coat is applied, the paint will run or contain small air bubbles. In these cases, let the paint dry for two or three days, then sand off using abrasive paper. Clean and smooth the surface and respray.


Tips on brush painting
Thoroughly stir bottle paints using a metal or grass rod prior to application. Do not shake the bottle, as this causes bubbles.
Select a suitable brush size according the area to be painted. Use flat brushes for areas and pointed brushes for details.
Move the brush in one direction only. When the coat has fully dried, another coat applied in a different direction can be for an even finish. paint is too thick, add the exclusive for a smoother application.


Masking
When more than one color is to be applied, the use of masking tape is necessary. Use only a high grade, thin paper tape. Remember the golden rule when painting outside surfaces. Paint light colors first, followed by the darker colors.




For curved and irregular borders
If the edge between the two colors is curved or irregular, cover the area with tape and draw the edge line on the tape sharpened pencil. Using a sharp modeling knife, cut away the tape from where the edges are to meet. Be careful not to out the body.


Some tips on masking
When masking tape is not properly applied, paint will run under the tape and mar the surface. Press the masking tape down firmly with a finger nail for good tape adhesion. Special attention must be paid to recessed body panel lines, projections and undulating surfaces, plus edges and corners of a body, if these areas are masked.


Cautions when overcoating Experienced modelers and professionals of- ten use different types of paints to obtain better results. When doing this however, you must accept the fact that you cannot use lacquer paints over acrylics or enamels. The solvents in lacquer will melt and damage coat ing of other paints.
PAINTING POLYCERBONATE (LEXAN) BODIES


Mask off the window areas

Windows of car bodies should remain transparent, so masking is required. Mask from the inside using paper tape. Some kits include masking seals for the car’s windows when painting.

Paint the details first

As paints are applied from the inside, but viewed from the outside, the first coat will be the outermost color on the finished model.
You must be careful when considering the order of painting colors. Color application should start with the details, just the opposite from painting styrene bodies.
Paint darker colors first 
When more than one color is to be used, apply the darker color first. The masking procedure is also done in reverse.


If a lighter color is applied first, followed by a darker color, the overcoated area of the first color will be darkened when viewed from the outside.



AlRBRUSH PAINTING

Airbrushing combines the advantages of both brush and spray cans. By utilizing its features, a variety of painting effects can be achieved.
Paints can be mixed to make custom shades
Airbrushing uses bottle paints, so blending and matching colors to your desires is easy.
Fine lines can be done
Airbrush painting is done by spraying misted paint onto the surface, just like spray cans. However, airbrushes can spray lines of about 1-3cm and even down to 1mm in some cases. By using this characteristics, professional effects, such as subtle gradations, camouflage painting, or using it just like a paint brush. is possible.
NECESSARY ITEMS
An airbrush system consists of the handpiece, compressor, and the connecting hose. Propellant cans can be used instead of a compressor, but their duration time is limited, and they must be disposed of when empty. ln the long term, a compressor will be more economical than cans.
Tamiya’s “Spray-Work” portable airbrush system uses a Ni-Cd 7.2V battery as its power source. It can also be operated from household current, using a compatible AC adapter.


2. MARKINGS
Decal and stickers are another important aspect in finishing car bodies. In addition to kitsupplied stickers, a wide selection of optional stickers is available on the market. One of a kind markings can also be made using selfadhesive sticker sheets.
TIPS FOR APPLYING STICKERS
Although the application seems easy, wrinkled or out-of-position stickers mar a model’s final finish. Completely removing the backing from the sticker prior to application will result in wrinkles or bubbles. Follow these procedures:


3. MORE DETAIL AND CUSTOMIZING 
Add details and customize your can to build the one-of-a-kind model.
Your imagination is the limit. Add a visor to your drivers helmet using thin transparent sheet styrene. Cut out a photo of your favorite driver from a magazine and glue it in the helmet. Make openings in the front grille, air intakes, etc. and apply plastic mesh from the inside. You can operate your car’s headlights and tail lamps by using optional light bulbs and brake lamp units available on the market. However, make sure they have compatible voltage ratings with your battery.

R/C SAILING GUIDE


R/C SAILING GUIDE 

Radio controlled yacht models can provide the same enjoyment in “conversing with the wind”, as their full sized counterparts can do. Using the natural energy of the wind, the model glides over the water, precisely controlled by its rudder and sails. Following are fundamental tips for operating in this elegant R/C sport.


1. RADIO CONTROL REQUIREMENTS
A 2-channel radio, with a stick controlled transmitter is required for yacht models. r Two servos control the sail and rudder.


A small yacht model can be controlled by standard sized servos, but a special high torque servo may be required to control the sails on a larger sized model. Consult your hobby dealer to select a suitable system.
2. WIND DIRECTION AND SAIL ZONE
The procedures for sailing are the same as experienced on full-sized yachts. A yacht is capable of maneuvering as shown in the illustrations. Bear in mind that a yacht cannot sail directly into the wind and there is an approximately 45 degree no-sail zone.


3. CONTROLLING A YACHT MODEL
The sailing performance of a yacht is largely influenced by the wind direction in relation to its sailing direction. The wind direction varies each moment. Control of the sail and rudder obtains smooth sailing, always keeping the direction of the prevailing wind in mind.
4. ADJUSTING MAST AND SAIL
The sailing characteristics of a yacht can be altered by adjusting mast angle and sail tensions.
WEATHER HELM AND LEE HELM
Three basic sailing tendencies are present when the rudder is straight (neutral). When the vessel tends to sail windwards (weather) with the rudder straight, the condition is called a WEATHER HELM. Opposite to this, when the vessel sails downwind (leeward), it is called a LEE HELM. A vessel that sails straight ahead is JUST HELM. Helm conditions can be adjusted by mast inclination. Inclining the mast forward (forestay) provides a lee helm, while inclining it aft (backstay), provides a weather helm.





ADJUSTING LEECH CURVE (SAIL TENSION)

Proper adjustment of your sails is essential in order to utilize wind power efficiently. During strong winds, the sails should be given extra tension, and less tension during mild winds. Adjust the mainsail by the boom vang, using the; adjuster. Extend boom vang rod for weak tension and shorten for more tension. Jib sail curve is adjusted by inclining or declining the sheet adjuster on the jib halyard.


*Moisture can cause troubles with systems and batteries. In particular, contact with salt water can cause almost immediate corroding of precision electronic circuits. Avoid contact with water as much as possible; however, in case the unit and/or batteries accidentally get wet, immediately remove from the model. Drain and wipe off any water. Allow it to air dry in the shade. If salt water gets inside the R/C unit, remove the case and rinse with fresh water. Test the dried unit prior to reinstalling in the model. Send to the dealer/manufacturer for repairs if any malfunction is observed.

SAILING SAFETY PRECAUTIONS
To avoid serious personal injury and/or property damage, operate all remotely controlled models in a responsible manner.
Never sail vessels near people (swimming, fishing, etc.) or animals, as it could cause a serious accident.

TO avoid damage to the vessel and prevent accidents, do not sail vessels in fast moving currents or restricted maneuvering areas.

Never sail vessels near full-sized boats as it could cause accidents.

Never sail vessels in harbors, ports or trafic routes used by full-sized ships/boats, as it could contribute to accidents.

Sailing in weak or no wind conditions could result in loss of control of the yacht model.

Avoid sailing in shallow waters, among water plants or in areas which could have underwater obstacles. The keel and rudder of the yacht model may become entangled or caught.
 More information: visit www.hobbyhot.com

Wednesday, March 28, 2012

Hobbywing Skywalker esc


Hobbywing Skywalker esc

Hey Guys,

These caught my attention price wise and amp wise. I want to replace my stock esc with a better one and the dimensions are perfect for my heli. I tought I would ask about these as a heli esc. I have ran hobbywing in my r/c cars before with good results and figured these can't be to bad.

My stock esc is a 8amp in my SR and wanted to replace it with a different one soon.

Here are the ones I was looking at

http://www.hobbyhot.com/SKYWALKER-20A-RC-Brushless-Speed-Controller-ESC.html

Thanks for any advice

SH Engine

SH Engine is a Golden Lion Enterprises Company was established in 1989. They continue to set the industry standard for manufacturing the best Nitro Engines on the market worldwide. SH Engines are known for there incredibly reliable, high horse power nitro engines. Using industry leading CNC techniques has allowed SH Engines to stay out in front of the competition. All SH Engines products are thoroughly tested by there engineers and Team Drivers to help introduce the best engines, replacement parts and hop-ups to the public!

Products

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SH ENGINES Model 18 Nitro Engine 2.74cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG630SH ENGINES Model 21 Nitro Engine 3.48cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG635SH ENGINES Model 28 Nitro Engine 4.57cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG640
SH ENGINES Model 18 Nitro Engine 2.74cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG630
SH ENGINES Model 21 Nitro Engine 3.48cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG635
SH ENGINES Model 28 Nitro Engine 4.57cc for RC Car Buggy Truck Truggy EG640
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